Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires feels like a European city that got dropped into South America — grand Haussmann-style boulevards, sidewalk cafes, and an obsession with steak and wine that borders on religious. The exchange rate situation makes it absurdly cheap for visitors paying in dollars or euros: a world-class steak dinner with wine might run you $15–20 USD. Neighborhoods are distinct — San Telmo for antiques and Sunday markets, Palermo for trendy restaurants and nightlife, La Boca for colorful photo ops (but don't wander off the tourist path there). Dinner starts at 9pm at the earliest, clubs open at 2am. The Subte (metro) is old but functional at ARS 110 per ride.
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Buenos Aires travel FAQ
How many days do I need in Buenos Aires?
4–5 days is ideal. Day 1: San Telmo neighborhood, if it's Sunday hit the famous antique market on Defensa street (goes for blocks). Day 2: Recoleta — the cemetery where Evita is buried is genuinely fascinating (free entry), then MALBA or the Bellas Artes museum. Day 3: La Boca for Caminito (30 minutes is enough for photos), then Palermo Soho for boutique shopping and lunch. Evening: catch a tango show — Café de los Angelitos or Esquina Carlos Gardel for the full experience. Day 4: Teatro Colón tour ($15, one of the world's most beautiful opera houses), Plaza de Mayo, then an asado dinner at Don Julio or La Cabrera (book ahead). Day 5: Tigre day trip — the river delta is like a mini Amazon, 1 hour by train from Retiro station.
Where can I see tango in Buenos Aires?
For the full dinner-and-show tourist experience: Café de los Angelitos ($60–80 USD with dinner), Esquina Carlos Gardel, or El Viejo Almacén in San Telmo. These are touristy but genuinely good performances. For something more authentic, go to a milonga — that's where locals actually dance tango. La Catedral in Almagro is a famous one in a converted warehouse (relaxed vibe, cheap drinks). Confitería Ideal is a gorgeous old-school ballroom. Most milongas charge $5–10 entry. The most authentic experience is the free tango in Plaza Dorrego (San Telmo) on Sundays. If you want to learn, beginner classes are offered at most milongas before the social dancing starts.
What's the best steak restaurant in Buenos Aires?
Don Julio in Palermo is consistently rated the best — it's on the World's 50 Best list. Expect to wait 1–2 hours without a reservation (they take some reservations online). Order the ojo de bife (ribeye) or entraña (skirt steak), and don't skip the provoleta (grilled provolone cheese). La Cabrera is another Palermo favorite with generous portions and excellent sides. For a more local experience, El Desnivel in San Telmo is no-frills and cheap — a full steak meal for under $10 USD. Parilla Peña in Palermo is where taxi drivers eat, which tells you everything. Key tip: Argentine beef is grass-fed and leaner than you might be used to — order it a punto (medium) not bien cocido (well-done) for the best flavor.